Showing posts with label moss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label moss. Show all posts

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Hiking up Dun da Ghaoithe, "the fork of the two winds"

Don't let the Gaelic spelling (click here for the pronunciation) of this gorgeous Corbett intimidate you; instead try out the view!



No, although the photos do not do it justice, this mountain is more of a gentle giant. The scale is hard to understand from all the photos, but trust me when I say it's spectacular.

Approaching the beginning....
My climb began mid-morning to cool winds and an overcast sky. I was hoping for better weather, but I wasn't going to be deterred: I was finally getting to climb the mountain I've been looking at for months!

Spring had come to the mountain and little woodland ephemerals of all kinds poked out of the grass. The bracken fronds were unfurling, the bog pink was blooming, and the Primulas were everywhere. I began the ascent easily enough, stopping often to peek at the bits of color of all the tiny flowers.

The views were a bit dreary, but I was lucky enough that the clouds were high. It sprinkled on my only a little bit the first half, and soon spots of sunshine were able to break through. I paused at the radio tower, but was eager to see the peaks of Dun da Ghaoithe once more peek out around the bend.

Two people passed me the whole day. It was just the mountain and me.

Skywalker?

It was amazing as I made it to the second radio tower that the roads behind me, if I turned to look at them, seemed to end at the sky, as if you'd walk off the edge of them.


View down from the lunch spot.
Then, the real hillwalking began. I mistakenly followed dear trails more often than I'd like to admit. They knew how to get up the quickest though. At one point I was almost ascending a rock face, but when I came (well, really rolled on to) the top, I almost slipped down the other side of a very steep hill into the next valley. After a moment to catch my breath in the soft moss, the sky opened up around me and I could see 360 degrees around me. I realized I'd perched where a bird of prey usually did by some interesting droppings, but I couldn't blame it for the view.

I finished the climb to the first cairn steadily, calculating my climb amongst the interesting and misleading boulders. The path between the tall cairn and the sudden drop into the valley was a bit unnerving, and I was very keen to put just one foot in front of the other without looking around.

The path between the cairn and the sheer drop into the valley.
The wind suddenly kicked up as I descended the dip between the two points of the mountain. I began to understand why they called it "the fork of the two winds." I had to put my jacket on and put my bandana around my ears, and then finally put my hood up enough to keep from getting a major headache.

The final hill to ascend to the top. Notice the scree.
The wind made the approaching scree climb ahead of me look very precarious. There was another sudden drop if I were to slip or be tripped up by a sudden gust. *Gulp!* But the jagged pieces of rock were surprisingly sturdy and ages of rain had formed gentle stairs up the face. Slowly, and with sure step, I climbed the last major hill between me and the very top (still making sure to give plenty of girth between me and the edge).

Scree steps...?
And then finally, I was there! The wind came rushing from the Atlantic and Ben More to welcome me with such force, that after a look around the summit, I took shelter on the leeward side of the cairn for some rest. The views were spectacular, stretching over to the mainland and almost to Skye and Iona. It was everything I'd hoped and more.

The path finally taken.

Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Daytrippin': On the hunt for the Holy Grail at the Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel in the noon day sun. Click for more photos.

It was a beautiful day to go daytrippin' and use the last day of my bus pass. The weather dutifully led me to Roslin, Scotland, to the Rosslyn Chapel, of the Knights Templar fame.

No, I did not see Tom Hanks, nor do I have any insights for the folks digging at Oak Island (which I'd just like to add is also an island in N.C.).

But, yes, I can attest to the words David Roberts spoke in 1842:

"There is a combination of light and shade I have never met with any subject, colour and richness of detail peculiar to itself."

He, of course, was talking as a painter, and today I can only talk in words.

I actually appreciated that the Rosslyn Chapel Trust has a strict no-photos policy for the inside of the chapel, so you can enjoy the ornate, yet compact, space without tens of people's flashes going off the whole time. Although I do not take photos inside of churches as a personal taboo, I even would have taken some today.

There is so much to see on the inside that you could spend days in there and still see some new detail (this was probably the best book I saw in the gift shop about the symbology, if you're curious). There is a curious mix of meaning in the stone carvings and I wonder, as those who've come before me, what the St. Clair clan was thinking. More than 100 green men peek out of the corners and from next to angels.

But, these photos will have to suffice as a glimpse of the picturesque countryside chapel (and a stately churchyard yew, Taxus baccata).

Thursday, December 17, 2015

Winter Hillwalking in Scotland: Hiking around Aviemore

What the Scottish call hillwalking, most everyone else would call hiking; however, I do believe there is a subtle, but critical, difference between the two. Hillwalking is very much a Scottish pastime and modern tradition for those who desire for "wild and lonely places." Scotland is rich in these places, with plenty of space in the Highlands to lose yourself, find no one, and be with a raw landscape.

Click for more photos!

I have to admit I was a bit worried about hillwalking in the winter for some reason. Although, I found it's really not that much different than hiking in a cooler, weather-wise, version of North Carolina, which I've done many a-time.

The snow greeted me off the train in Aviemore, in the north of Cairngorms National Park, and I had enough light left in the day to clamber and slide to the top of Craigellachie Nature Preserve. The next day, after a bit of a hike change, I made my way down the Ryvoan Pass, which passes through Abernethy Nature Preserve.

My photos don't do the golden (and warm!) weather and breathtaking landscape any justice, but I hope they honor the experience.