From Beginning to End to Beginning Again: The Brief, Whirlwind Road Trip to Mobile, AL

Thursday, November 8 to Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Camellia japonica 'Sawada's Mahogany' generously donated a few early blooms to our visit of Green Nurseries. This is one of my favorites from Mr. Sawada. The cool evenings brought out the purple blush, which adds an extra dimension of color to this stunning cultivar.

I seem to always ask myself this question as the proverbial rollercoaster is sputtering up to the tippy-top of the hill. The breathlessness you feel just as you begin the drop into the twists and turns of the ride you find yourself strapped into catches me every time. Had I really thought through what I was attempting to do?

Is that sasquatch I spotted at MBG??? (Thanks for the photobomb, Maarten!)

The trip to Mobile had been floating around my mind since I’d come back to North Carolina. At some point I had to relieve my grandmother of the plants and stuff I’d left behind, and visit the friends and family I knew I would miss so much.

My mom had agreed to go with me to help with the complicated moving logistics/summersaults I would need to go through to get everything back. Room on a Uhaul for plants and the coinciding Independent Plant Breeders Conference (check out the star lineup and see the summary below for the historic photos!) helped me get part of the trip covered by work.

After all the thought I’d put into it, I was in a daze as I drove the first leg to Charlotte that Wednesday night after a full day of work.

What was I getting myself into?

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My mom and I set off at 8 o’clock sharp on Thursday morning. My goal was to get to Mobile in time for the pre-conference mixer. I drove the first leg from Belmont to Montgomery, and mom drove the last two and a half hours to Mobile. We’d been traveling for the better part of a day, but the grey day gave us no indication any time had passed.

Pulling up to my grandparents’ house seemed like the most normal thing in the world to do. It was still there in the same spot waiting for us. It hurt to think it had been more than four months since I was there. It had been much longer since my mom had seen her parents though. All in all, I decided to spend the evening with my family and leave the IPB conference for the next morning….

Bill Barnes takes a moment to remind us "if all else fails [in your breeding efforts] seek creativity elsewhere!"

Click here for more photos and check out the captions for more of the story!

Trip Summary
Thursday- Drive from Charlotte to Mobile, evening with family

Friday- Conference talks all morning at the Battle House Hotel, site visits to the Mobile Botanical Gardens and Bellingrath Gardens, conference dinner at Bellingrath (check out these old horticulture photos!), night with family afterwards

Saturday- Conference talks all morning at Battle House Hotel, site visits to PDSI and Flowerwood Nursery and Green Nurseries, plant exchange with Maarten, Bobby, Linda and MBG, house party at Donna and Joe Camp’s House

Sunday- Morning with family, afternoon spent packing stuff and organizing plants in yard for travel the next day, dinner with Maarten, Colleen, Linda and company at Aroy Thai restaurant

Monday- Uhaul rental as torrential downpours began in Mobile, picked up plants from Linda’s, Maarten’s and Bobby’s, packed my things into my car and the Uhaul, began drive back to Raleigh, stopped in Auburn for dinner with Keith, stayed at AirBnB in Atlanta

Tuesday- Drove from Atlanta to Raleigh, dropped stuff off at the house and at work, mom drove the Uhaul back to Belmont, I don’t remember when I did that night. WHEW!

A Scottish Farewell: Glen Coe and Glen Etive

(1/9/17)- I apologize for the gross delay in a blog post. I have so many stories and such a backlog of photos! I will work on them as I can, but also try to keep moving forward in perspective.

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It was just by chance, a passing comment, that Raini mentioned that since she was no longer employed, she could do a roadtrip up to Glen Coe. Even now, I am not sure whether she knew at the time how serious I was about wanting to go.

It was fitting that a week before I left Scotland to return to the U.S. that I would come back to the place where I fell in love with the country back in 2003. Goodness, I was a just a 13-year-old then; but the Three Sisters are impressive enough to instill awe in even the most stoic.

The Three Sisters of Glen Coe

Click here for more photos!

I kept on Raini about when she might be able to go on this trip, and we eventually set a date for an overnight trip. Adventure awaits!

She picked me up from the flat in the afternoon in an effort to hopefully catch the sunset in the Highlands. We wound up the winding roads of the Highlands and did catch the last shadows of the sun on the impressive hills.

Hill between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy

We ended up staying overnight at the youth hostel in Glencoe (after the GPS getting us lost three times). The darkness of a clear night and mountain valleys enveloped us as we walked down the road to the local pub for food and libations.

The next morning was a tough start with us trying to get up early for the sunrise, with no food or cafes open. It was definitely a lesson in proper planning.

But the day offered beautiful views. The clouds came back, but remained high so we could see the mountains and glens. It was as if Nature herself was revealing her majesty to us. I was able to blow the Beltane callhorn to the Three Sisters and hear the reply of the glen, and Raini was able to start her photography project with Glen Coe as her backdrop.

Modest Beinn a'Chrulaiste overlooking the road to Glen Etive

Hiking up Dun da Ghaoithe, "the fork of the two winds"

Don't let the Gaelic spelling (click here for the pronunciation) of this gorgeous Corbett intimidate you; instead try out the view!

Click here for more photos.

No, although the photos do not do it justice, this mountain is more of a gentle giant. The scale is hard to understand from all the photos, but trust me when I say it's spectacular.

Approaching the beginning....

My climb began mid-morning to cool winds and an overcast sky. I was hoping for better weather, but I wasn't going to be deterred: I was finally getting to climb the mountain I've been looking at for months!

Spring had come to the mountain and little woodland ephemerals of all kinds poked out of the grass. The bracken fronds were unfurling, the bog pink was blooming, and the Primulas were everywhere. I began the ascent easily enough, stopping often to peek at the bits of color of all the tiny flowers.

The views were a bit dreary, but I was lucky enough that the clouds were high. It sprinkled on my only a little bit the first half, and soon spots of sunshine were able to break through. I paused at the radio tower, but was eager to see the peaks of Dun da Ghaoithe once more peek out around the bend.

Two people passed me the whole day. It was just the mountain and me.

Skywalker?

It was amazing as I made it to the second radio tower that the roads behind me, if I turned to look at them, seemed to end at the sky, as if you'd walk off the edge of them.

View down from the lunch spot.

Then, the real hillwalking began. I mistakenly followed dear trails more often than I'd like to admit. They knew how to get up the quickest though. At one point I was almost ascending a rock face, but when I came (well, really rolled on to) the top, I almost slipped down the other side of a very steep hill into the next valley. After a moment to catch my breath in the soft moss, the sky opened up around me and I could see 360 degrees around me. I realized I'd perched where a bird of prey usually did by some interesting droppings, but I couldn't blame it for the view.

I finished the climb to the first cairn steadily, calculating my climb amongst the interesting and misleading boulders. The path between the tall cairn and the sudden drop into the valley was a bit unnerving, and I was very keen to put just one foot in front of the other without looking around.

The path between the cairn and the sheer drop into the valley.

The wind suddenly kicked up as I descended the dip between the two points of the mountain. I began to understand why they called it "the fork of the two winds." I had to put my jacket on and put my bandana around my ears, and then finally put my hood up enough to keep from getting a major headache.

The final hill to ascend to the top. Notice the scree.

The wind made the approaching scree climb ahead of me look very precarious. There was another sudden drop if I were to slip or be tripped up by a sudden gust. *Gulp!* But the jagged pieces of rock were surprisingly sturdy and ages of rain had formed gentle stairs up the face. Slowly, and with sure step, I climbed the last major hill between me and the very top (still making sure to give plenty of girth between me and the edge).

Scree steps...?

And then finally, I was there! The wind came rushing from the Atlantic and Ben More to welcome me with such force, that after a look around the summit, I took shelter on the leeward side of the cairn for some rest. The views were spectacular, stretching over to the mainland and almost to Skye and Iona. It was everything I'd hoped and more.

The path finally taken.

Left, left, left….but look right: settling into Edinburgh

“Left, left, left….” My cousin and I chanted, as my grandfather pulled out of the rental car place in Glasgow in 2003. That was my first time in Scotland and it was an unforgettable trip.

As I rode the bus from Granton, my nerves were on end as the double decker drove through the narrow streets. On the wrong side of the road. Of which I was reminded of after getting on the bus going the wrong way because I was standing on the wrong side of the road. Again.

And then there was crossing the street. We’ve been told since we were little to look both ways to cross the street. Okay, I’ve got that. But, what I didn’t realize is that in the United States we look left then right, because the traffic is coming from the left. Well, here it isn’t.

There are thousands of people from all over Europe and Asia here for the festivals, so it’s been hard to gauge the normal Edinburgh society. Throngs of tourists have flooded the streets and tourist shops are everywhere in the Old and New Towns. I’m not a native, but even I am tired after a few days. And these poor folks have had to deal with the festivals for the past month. Yuck.

There is a lot of Mediterranean, Turkish and American food and the traditional Scottish food is faded in the background (although there is plenty of fish and chips to be had). And then there’s plenty of whisky to be had too. It’s its own food group anyway. Thinking now though, this is a major metropolitan area, and just like in the U.S., the “traditional” foods of the region aren’t really front and center and readily available to visitors (or are only known by the locals, of which I’m working on). The backbone of the society is dictated by “The Council” and social programs are pretty well-organized, you just have to figure them out! Things are certainly more expensive here and it will be nice to be able to cook for myself.

So, in a way, it’s very much like being in Charlotte: the weather’s similar, the people look similar, there’s a smattering of immigrants, and there is are a lot of options shopping/food-wise; except…..the accents are definitely not the same and it’s in Scotland.

But, traffic and people aside, Edinburgh has been amazing. It is set in a beautiful place, full of beautiful, ancient buildings. Thankfully they thought to save many of them in the 60s and 70s. The view from Holyrood Park is incredible and you can see north to the Highlands and far into the Firth of Forth. I’ve been able to learn the city by walking around and looking around from the tops of the buses.

As an American, I think I can appreciate the architecture more than most of the native folks. Just the other day I went to an art show that was part of the Fringe Festival and it was held in the courtyard of an old, stone abbey and Edinburgh Castle filled the skyline behind it. The Londoner, Irishman and lady from Spain couldn’t understand why I was so excited. Everywhere you look there is history. Even as the bustle of modern society fills in most of the available space around me, and the skillfully crammed buildings of the streets of Edinburgh, I can still appreciate that I am in one of the most beautiful places in the Western world.

Adventures in the Polly Mobile 2: University of Delaware and Driving to Washington, D.C.

It was sad to say good bye to Barb and the wonderful gardens of Delaware, but I had to keep moving on. I was on my way to Washington, D.C.

Herbaceous Garden at University of Delaware Botanic Gardens.

But before my epic leg down the Delmarva Peninsula, I made arrangements with my dear friend Jason Veil to visit the University of Delaware Botanic Garden and to talk about the curatorial assistantship program there.

How Jason and I met is just another testament to how serendipitous horticulture really is. We met by chance as we rode the final bus back to the parking lot after the Woody Plant Conference at Swarthmore College this summer. I think we were talking about the Longwood Graduate Program when he put the bug in my ear about UDel's plant curation program. Little did I know that chance meeting would lead me back around to the university.

So, fast forward to this morning. I got a few extra minutes of sleep, thankfully, and had enough time to say my last goodbyes to the Stremples. I drove down to the garden, checking in with Jason to make sure we were both still undeterred by the cool, grey drizzle. Nothing keeps plant people out of the garden. Jason met me in the parking lot outside of the botanic garden's office with a parking pass, reminding me of the joys nightmares of university parking. After a brief stop in the office, we headed over to see Dr. Frett before he left for the day.

Next was the tour of the garden. It surrounds the agriculture buildings and abuts the dairy, displaying a menagerie of old landscape favorites from the 70s and 80s. There were some impressive specimens, including a maturing Acer griseum, as well as a few who needed some TLC. Overall, there was an interesting story about the fairly recent history of the grounds and how the collections were rooted in teaching plant ID classes. Throughout Jason's fantastic tour, he answered all of my probing questions, and dealt out a couple of jabs at my anti-invasive species comments. There were also some new additions to the gardens, including an impressive removal of some huge hollies and exciting new plantings going in, per Jason's vision as curator. It reminded me a lot of the J.C. Raulston and I can only imagine what the space will look like as it matures. Planting new plants really is an incredible way to show vision.

I highly recommend getting out to see the garden. Although it may be intimidating being on a college campus, it exists as a teaching tool to all, students and members of the community, local and otherwise! Check out the garden's website to find out about parking and upcoming programs, including their plant sale!

So, after my wonderful tour with Jason (and getting some yummy ice cream made at UDel's creamery), I was off down 301, the interstate that snakes down the Delmarva Peninsula, crosses the Maryland state line and the Chesapeake Bay, makes its way to Anapolis and then Washington, D.C. It was a slow, grey afternoon, but it was an easy, incredibly flat, drive. Very little traffic allowed me to look out at the many farms and new developments coming up (which saddened me because of what is to come after that, as I've seen with the land around Charlotte as I've grown up). The bridge to cross the Chesapeake was amazing, so much longer than I thought it would be, and it was a great place to catch the sunset.

And then the traffic began. But, I was okay with it because the highways were now the organized ones of the south (whoo, crossing the Mason-Dixon line!).

My final thought will be to the people of the southern states: be thankful for your roads and how they are organized. Appreciate the many road signs you have. There are those who do not have them, who live in a place where right lanes just end.

Okay, and my post- post-final thought will be check out these awesome musical people: ilyAIMy.

A Mighty Triad: Morris Arboretum, Longwood Gardens and Chanticleer

It's almost not fair to do this, but it cannot be helped. It's been too long coming and I want to make sure these wonderful experiences are shared. I also wish I had enough time to annotate each photo, but I would only be able to do that if I could pause time.  Feel free to comment or email me if you have any questions!

The inflorescence of a grass with its receptive female flowers
waiting for the wind to blow its way, with an Agapanthus and the porch of Chanticleer House Garden in the background.

Each one of these institutions, Morris Arboretum, Longwood Gardens and Chanticleer, are leaders in the international public gardens community, for many different reasons. I've heard stories for years from the Horticulture department at N.C. State, from professors and students who have traveled to Pennsylvania. It is amazing how much more in horticulture made sense after visiting these gardens in succession. I met so many people whose names I'd heard, but never had a face to put with the name. Now, whenever anyone talks about horticulture royalty I know who they're talking about. It is still mind-blowing to think I was so close to these people and places.

I think that officially makes me a geek.

ANYway, before we left, Tom told Tessa, Eva and me to choose which gardens we wanted to visit after we were done with the conference. He sent us home with books on all of the gardens and Eva and Tessa poured over them that night. I immediately made a request for Longwood, since I'd only ever been on a cold, overcast March day. Tessa knew an intern at the Morris Arboretum and suggested we might get a tour from her. None of us had ever been to Chanticleer and its whimsy seemed to fit with Eva perfectly. It also worked out that a past PHA office intern worked at Chanticleer in the development office and could get us in early and give us a tour. Our all-star horticulture extravaganza came together pretty quickly.

We were on the road early Saturday morning to get to Longwood Gardens as soon as it opened. It was an overcast, mild day, but I could barely contain my excitement. I found myself almost jogging down the allees. We only had a couple of hours before we needed to head off to the next garden but there was so much to see! Poor Eva and Tessa had to keep slowing me down. The Calocedrus decurrens grove was still just as stately as before, but sadly many of the largest trees had succumbed to the heat and stress that were causing their decline when I first visited in spring 2013. It was heartbreaking to see the trees that had inspired me to love the species suffering. Not all was doom and gloom though. The orchid collection and glasshouses were still as overwhelming as ever. I could have stayed with the orchid collections forever, but alas.

***Remember, click on the photo for the slideshows!***

Morris Arboretum was our next stop for a private tour with Lauren, a friend of Tessa's from URI who was doing a long-term internship at the Morris. The tree walk was an excellent exhibit that welcomed visitors to walk in the canopies of some of the trees and get a bird's-eye view of the ground. Netting was suspended about 30 feet in the air and children, young and old, could climb around on it. There were also learning stations to experience trees with all of your senses. It was pretty cool. We walked through the model train garden and into the older part of the garden with the older trees. We met one of the original Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Dawn Redwood, to be brought back to the U.S. You can see how small Tessa looks compared to the tree.

If that wasn't enough horticulture for us after our day of garden adventures, we met up with Andrew Bunting, the curator of the Scott Arboretum, at his home in Swarthmore, PA. We got a private tour of Belvidere, Bunting's intensely-planted, intimately-designed personal garden (Check out his presentation at the J.C. Raulston Arboretum in April 2014). His summer outdoor room and picnic table with built-in planters were crowd favorites. He cleverly worked with his neighbors to expand his planting space beyond the .3-acres of his own yard so he could plant screening plants and an extensive vegetable garden, complete with chickens. It is a rare treat to see the private garden of a public horticulturist.

The next morning we were up especially early to get to Chanticleer before it opened to the public. It was over-and-above what I was expecting. The expansive property was intensely planted and manicured with very deliberate considerations for vistas and focal points, but it was so expertly executed that it looked like you'd stumbled upon an intimate garden taken over by nature (and they offer plant lists of each area in very creative and adorable boxes!). The horticulturists are not only gardeners but artists, and each are encouraged to give each of their areas a touch with their own artistic flair beyond the plants they choose. I highly recommend making this a destination if you're ever in the Philadelphia area.

A Trip through an Orchid Lover's Dream: The Stop at the New York Botanical Garden

It has been too long since I promised to post my photos from our trip to the Woody Plant Conference. We stopped at several gardens and over the next few days, I'll post up the rest of them.

We headed out from Martha's Vineyard on the first ferry and drove straight to the New York Botanical Garden to meet Jaime Morin. She'd organized an incredible itinerary that led us through many of the areas of the garden with the curators themselves.